Hayabusa specially made SUKAJAN/SKULL

Hayabusa Special Sukajan/ skull

Authentic made in Japan "SUKAJAN"
After WWII, there was a shortage of materials and supplies. Despite this hardship,the craftsmen of Japan gathered and channeled their ideas and wisdom into the sukajan jackets.

The sukajan are said to be the first western style clothing the Japanese made. The sukajan is embroidered on the inner side in addition to the main face, showing the amount of effort put into these jackets. This leads to the introduction of URA-MA-SA-RI.

URA-MA-SA-RI is the aesthetic and soul of sukajan. It means putting in time and effort into even the parts of the jacket that may be unseen, using valuable fabrics on the inner side or changing the style of embroidery despite being in hidden places. This thought embraces the Japanese spirit and aesthetic of paying close attention to all aspects of a piece.

It is necessary to produce and sell many jackets in order to receive high amounts of profit. However, Hayabusa cannot produce a large number of jackets, and it entails a highly expensive process. The reason for this is because the jackets are 100% made in Japan. There are elements that are present only in Hayabusa's sukajan. Thought and time is put into even the hidden aspects, as explained through the URA-MA-SA-RI spirit. This is what makes these jackets so special.

Size Chart
Small size: (few remaining)
Width of garment 52cm
Length 57cm

Medium size: 
Width of garment 54cm
Length 59cm

Large size: (few remaining): 
Width of garment 56cm
Length 61cm

Extra Large size: (few remaining)
Width of garment 58cm
Length 63cm

Material Rayon Satin
* It is the same material as what was used to make sukajan in Japan in 1950's

Zipper (Kane-shou) original & specially made Hayabusa Zipper
* The zipper is made using the same material as that of the original and is finished with nickel plating. The size, as well as the thickness of the zipper is also made to match that of the original exactly. Therefore, the feeling of the zipper is identical to the original vintage jacket.

Rib Wool Material
* The number of folds/ stripes of the rib is made to match that of the original sukajan as well.

Embroidery
Not only is all the embroidery done using a horizontally moving sewing machine but also made in Japan by a Japanese craftsman. Horizontally moving sewing machines are highly complicated in that the user must pay attention to multiple points of interest at once while operating the machine. One of these is the foot pedal which is used to accelerate the speed of the needle, and the other is a lever that is controlled by moving the knee outward. Pushing this lever adjusts the width span of the embroidery, allowing for a quick transition between thin and thick lines on the fabric.

Process
The reason why the production method is explained in such detail is to emphasize the hard labor put into making these jackets. Outsourcing for cheap labor results in a drop in quality. To preserve the high quality of the original, effort is put into even the smallest of details.

Furthermore, because all jackets are embroidered by a single craftsman, each one is a one-of-a-kind in terms of the embroidery.

The process of the horizontally moving sewing machine involves multiple steps. Firstly, an outline of the image is established on the fabric by hand. Next, this space is filled through embroidery. When done by hand, the strands of thread overlap and grow in thickness, resulting in a different nuance than the product of a computerized machine.

Although a computerized machine will produce an exact replica in terms of image,it will have a flat finish and fail to replicate the unique thread thickness found in vintage sukajan jackets.

Hayabusa uses titanium powder when drawing the image outlines on the fabric. Furthermore, the craftsman lays the original jacket next to their work in order to constantly check and make sure the thickness of the threads and nuance of the reproduction match that of the vintage version.

The embroidery thread itself is the same thickness as that of the original and is made of rayon. The horizontally moving sewing machine paired with the thick rayon thread makes it possible for the reproduction to have a soft and fluffy finish.
In current day, the thread is thin and tough, making it possible to do highly detailed reproductions. However, this results in a hard, patch-like finish. Using a thick and soft thread allows for a softer and comfortable finish. This kind of thread is too delicate for computerized machines, making it necessary to have all embroidery done by a craftsman-operated horizontally moving sewing machine.

If you compare the results of these two methods, it is like comparing a copied print to a air brush painting. In conclusion, it is necessary to use the horizontally moving sewing machine in order to accurately reproduce the texture and feeling of the vintage jacket.

No matter how difficult this may be, every ounce of effort, time, and cost is necessary in making a genuinely good product.

Good cost performance is said to be necessary when regarding competitive companies and capitalism, but this leads to crafstemen who are left behind. Nowadays many jobs are computerized, done by machines, or outsourced to foreign countries, taking away jobs from the Japanese craftsmen.

Big name fashion brands such as YSL and Gucci made sukajan jackets mainstream,but do these brands fully understand the craftsmanship, history, and culture behind these vintage icons?

About the Stuffing:
Traditionally, the inside stuffing of the jacket was comprised of scraps of old clothes as well as tabi (traditional Japanese socks) which had small clasps in the back to secure the cloth around the ankles. Interestingly, the scrapped tabi included these clasps and were used as part of the stuffing for the sukajan. Although Hayabusa wished to stay true to the traditional stuffing, these metal clasps were notorious for causing fires back in the day. To protect the safety of the wearer, the clasps were scrapped and the reproductions were stuffed with natural fibers.

Synthetic fibers are lightweight but natural fibers have a comfortable weight to it. The natural stuffing for the sukajan jackets are specially made and ordered for Hayabusa.

Afterward
There is nobody before who has made a reproduction of a vintage sukajan jacket to this degree and succeeded in staying true to every single detail. Although it is expensive, Hayabusa guarantees complete satisfaction in its sukajan jackets.



Junya Demura
Hayabusa
販売価格 0円(税抜)
SOLD OUT

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Hayabusa Kat Klother

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